Why is it so important to get into a size (and style) that
fits?
In a nutshell, to change the
world.
The bra is a fairly young garment—when
compared to the existence of other types of apparel. Outer coverings—such as pants, shirts, and
dresses—have been around for hundreds of years.
Maybe not in the shape or style that they are now but attire that served
their purpose has been. Without doing a
poop-ton of my own research but going off this website--
A Brief History of the Bra--the bra first came
to be in the early 1890s, as a replacement (of sorts) for the corset. Underwires came to be in the early 1930s and
cup sizing came soon after. It should be noted, though, that cups sizes from that time bear little resemblance
to the cup sizing of today.
The history, for someone with my passion to fit my clients
and know where it all came from, can be quite distracting. I nearly got sucked into reading from
numerous websites rather than finish up the point that I’m trying to make on
this post. Please forgive me if it gets
a little scattered because I may see a tidbit that I want to include and throw
it in randomly.
In the meantime, a little visual timeline of the evolution
of the bra:
Early 1900s
1910s
1920s--when busts were flattened and squished
1940s--note the age progression and how it relates to the length of the bra
1950s--you could hurt someone with those shapes
1960s--all about function, not flattery
Starting to appear in a much "softer" shape; far less structure
There are tons of bras to choose from nowadays. I really think the style explosion began when
Madonna started the trend of underwear
as outerwear—first in the 1980s when she first hit the scene in her lace
bustiers...
and continuing into the 1990s during her Truth or Dare/Dick Tracy
era...
An extreme throwback to the 1950s.
Before that, bras seemed more
functional than anything. After that,
they had to be “pretty”, “unique”, “eye-catching”. Because of this paradigm shift, hundreds of
choices became available, at all different price points.
They no longer appear to be the *right*
choices, though. For decades, the shape and size of
women was pretty stagnant and fairly small, even if we did get taller by a
bit. In the 1960s, based upon numerous
sources that I could find, the average weight of a woman was 140lbs. In the 1980s, there was a increase to 145,
and by the year 2000, the average weight was more than 165lbs. Yet, bra *sizes* remain pretty much the
same. Granted, it was a whole different
sizing method then—one that I don’t know enough about to explain, I just know
that it was different.
For example
Marilyn Monroe was touted as a 36C but the *fullest* part of her bust was 37”
so, clearly, the sizing system was different then. (And a “32” might have worked for someone who
may have had only 26” around their ribcage because the measurement was based
upon bust proportion or whatnot.) However,
even with the sizing *method* change, they stuck with the same band size range:
32 to 38 or 40; and, pretty much the same cup range: A to DD or DDD. And, in stores, that is the consensus of
availability today. Yes, there are
exceptions but they are few.
20, 30, and 40 years ago, we didn’t have nearly the “insulation”
that we do now so having that limited a range wasn’t as much of an issue. With the increase in body weight and obesity,
though, comes a variety of flesh distributions, for lack of a better
description. Band sizes have to take
into account rib circumference as well as the flesh that covers it; which could
be very little or quite a bit or somewhere in between. Cup sizes are approaching their limit, in
terms of letters of the alphabet. The UK
is up to L; the U.S. is up to N (which is actually *smaller* than the UK cup
of L); yet the flesh that fills the cups continues to be more and more.
Despite these drastic changes, though, department stores
haven’t really changed what they carry.
They just carry more options in the sizes that they already had, and
have had, for years. To some degree,
having that small a band range is perfectly fine but is it the *right* range to
have? On a
survey post on
/r/ABraThatFits, where the majority of responders (646 of 909 or 71%) fall into
an age range between 18 and 29, the perceived band size (774 of 895 or 87% ) does
fall into the 32-38 range but, upon further investigation (i.e. inputting
measurements into the provided
bra size calculator) it seems that the majority
actually falls into a range of 28-34 band sizes (714 of 895 or 80%).
The other disparity lies in the perceived and
calculated cup sizes of survey participants.
Perceived cup majority (cups measured via UK sizing): B to DD (629 of
894 or 70%). Calculated cup majority (again,
UK sizing): DD to G (571 of 895 or 64%).
I should also mention that the perceived cup greater than G totaled only
34 but, when cup size was calculated, it totaled 192 above a G cup.
Why is this important to note? Department stores, in general, are providing cups only up
to F (U.S. size DDD) and the band size that is *married* to these cup sizes are
TOO BIG for the customer—usually a 36 or larger. Customers are forcing themselves into these mismatched
sizes because it’s too tedious and labor intensive to get the band/cup combo
that actually fits.
The mode value of the
perceived cup size is a B and the mode value of the perceived band is a 34. So, folks are buying the 34Bs but are really
needing 30Es (mode value of calculated band is a 30 and mode value of calculated cup is an E)—two band
sizes and three cup sizes different, not even a “sister size”.
A sidenote: there wasn’t an alignment between age and bra
size so that’s why there is the number differences that there are. It *is* important to note the age of the
majority, though, because this is the demographic that is a primary candidate
for much of the well known bra marketing in the present time.
So, I go back to my original question but slightly rephrased…Why
do we need to buy bras that fit? So that
manufacturers will listen and adapt.
They won’t change what they think works until their bottom line indicates
that it’s necessary.
Quit buying the 36Cs that work “okay”.
Invest in the 30F
that makes you feel fabulous!!
